Sunday, March 25, 2012

Niche

Niche
11011 Jasper Ave
780-761-1011

Note: I first visited Niche back in October, but that first review fell off my radar and stayed unpublished. Today's post will be a review of Niche based on the October visit and my latest visit for Edmonton's Downtown Dining Week earlier this month.


October
The restaurant gives a cozy yet modern feel. Tables are close to each other and the main dining area seats 20-22 people, with 10 additional seats at the bar. We were given the choice of sitting at a table for 2 right next to the window and the door, or at a table alongside a booth just a few steps away at the back of the dining room. We chose the latter.

Water was served in a large goblet with a thin slice of cucumber. While some may find it refreshing, I’m not a fan of having the taste of cucumber in my water. Give me lemon, please. We also ordered a pitcher of sangria. I tried to discreetly watch the server/bartender prepare our pitcher, and observed that she started off with a mixture of pineapple, orange, lime, and lemon juice, followed by cointreau, a mystery syrup, and red wine. She then added citrus fruit, peach, and strawberry slices to finish off her creation. I thought it was quite nice, but not quite perfect (I've been spoiled by the sangria in Spain). It was a pretty large jug and I was very full after finishing off the pitcher at the end of the evening.

We were guinea pigs for the new menu (they change their menu listings every couple of months or so). My entree was the duck confit with a sour cherry sauce. The duck was cooked well and had good flavour to it. My duck had paper thin piece of skin which I chose to eat. The white beans worked well with the overall dish and it reminded me that I should eat lentils more often! The cherry sauce was not sour at all, but was more a gentle tart. It also paired well with the duck.

Andrew had the candied pork, which was moist, tender and delicious. The potato medallions it was served with was also crispy and flavorful. The second side was a pickled beet leaf which neither of us liked.

For dessert we shared the flourless chocolate brownie with a salted caramel sauce ($10). Personally, I’m a huge fan of mixing salty and sweet. It was a fairly thin slice that was approximately 2.5 x 2.5 inches. However, I’m glad we shared because I found it to be quite rich, as I do with many brownies. The brownie was topped with a few thin slices of plum, which I didn’t think worked with the flavors of the brownie. There were a few grains of sea salt topping the caramel sauce and it was just the right amount for a light contrast to counterbalance the sweet. Given how rich the brownie was, I would have preferred either a dollop of whipped cream on top or a scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side. Overall, the brownie gets a 3/5.

The bathrooms were one-of-a-kind. There were two individual unisex stalls at the back of the restaurant which were enclosed by sliding doors artistically covered with stainless steel. One of the stall had a mirror on the wall that was built in behind a border of bricks that took up the rest of the wall (the brick theme carried throughout the restaurant). Three communal sinks were in between the stalls, which had copper faucets and black soap dispensers brushed with copper paint. Fresh towels were available for patrons’ hand-drying needs.

The dishes are reasonably priced but the menu selection is quite small. I did feel a bit uncomfortable sitting so close to other diners (we were able to eavesdrop in a conversation of a couple who were 2 tables down from us; they sounded like they were on a first date).

March
For Downtown Dining Week, Niche offered 3-course dinners for $25 or $50. They also had a 2-course lunch option for $15. We opted for the Dinner for $25. The appetizer was the Duck Parfait - a duck confit with a mixed berry and apricot coulis. It was served in a sherry glass encircled by several pieces of crostini. The duck confit was velvety smooth with a rich and hearty flavor, while the fruit was warmly spiced. The coulis complemented the duck well as the savoury flavor of the duck and the fruit and spice from the coulis became accentuated. The only thing I didn't like was the depth of the glass the parfait was served in. It came accompanied with a tiny spoon and it was a bit tricky getting it into the narrow glass opening and to the bottom of the glass.

duck.parfait

There were two choices for the entree: the Shoulder of Lamb and the Sea Bass Polonaise. We ordered one of each to try both. The sea bass was encrusted with Panko crumbs and served with a tiny portion of duchess potatoes. The breading on the fish was crunchy in most areas but a bit soggy in others, and the fish was unremarkable overall. The duchess potatoes were rich and buttery with a crispy coating. I thought that this entree was small and could have used a side of vegetables.

sea.bass.polonaise

The lamb was served with a fig sauce on top of a bed of minted pea risotto, with a side of seasoned julienned vegetables. The lamb was slow roasted until melt-in-your-mouth tender and I enjoyed the fig sauce that topped it. The risotto was not too heavy tasting, and the mint in it gave it more of a fresh taste. Overall, I preferred the lamb over the sea bass.

shoulder.of.lamb

Crepes Suzette were on the menu for dessert. There were two crepes topped with a segment of red-dyed orange. The crepes dusted with icing sugar and served in a pool of butter. Very rich.

crepes.suzette

During this visit, I asked whether they still had the sangria available as I didn't see it on the menu. Unfortunately, they don't make it anymore.

Overall I was not stuffed from the meal, and I'm sure Andrew was still hungry after as he ate less than me. The service was very quick and streamlined. I noticed that our server was inconsistent with how she handled customers. For example, when she brought the entrees to the two tables next to us, she explained what everything on the plate was. She didn't do that for our table. Another thing (still not sure if good or bad) was the coffee or tea up-sell with dessert, which was only offered to the couple next to us.

Based on our two visits to Niche, I think the food was nothing extraordinary, and I am uncomfortable with the small tables and how the tables are no more than a foot apart. I don't think there's enough of a wow factor for us to return in the future.

3/5

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